Paper choice affects origami results more than beginners typically expect, and precise, sharp creases matter more than any other single technique factor in whether a model folds correctly.
Paper weight and size affect what's actually foldable
Standard printer paper is too thick for many traditional origami models, especially ones with many layers or small final folds, since thick paper becomes bulky and imprecise after several folds compound on top of each other — genuine origami paper is thinner, allowing crisp folds to accumulate without becoming an unmanageably thick, imprecise lump. Paper size also matters relative to a model's complexity: a highly detailed model with many small folds needs a larger starting sheet than a simpler model, since each fold reduces the effective working size, and starting too small for a complex model can make later steps physically impossible to execute precisely.
Precise, sharp creases matter more than folding speed
A crease that's folded loosely or imprecisely compounds error into every subsequent fold that depends on it, since origami models build sequentially on top of previous folds — a single early imprecise crease can make a model increasingly misaligned as folding continues, sometimes making a correct final result impossible regardless of how carefully later steps are executed. Taking the time to fold each crease sharply and precisely, using a fingernail or a dedicated bone folder to firmly set each crease, matters more to a model's final success than folding quickly, especially for beginners still building the skill to fold both accurately and efficiently at the same time.
Diagrams use a standardized symbol system worth learning early
Origami instructions, particularly traditional printed diagrams, use a standardized set of symbols (different line types for valley folds versus mountain folds, arrows indicating fold direction, and other conventions) that are consistent across most origami books and instructions regardless of the specific model or original source. Learning this symbol system once, rather than trying to interpret each new diagram's conventions from scratch, makes it possible to follow a much wider range of origami instructions and diagrams confidently.
Wet-folding is a distinct, more advanced technique for a different result
Standard origami uses dry paper, folded and left as folded. Wet-folding — lightly dampening paper before folding, then letting it dry in the folded shape — allows for more sculptural, rounded curves rather than only sharp, angular creases, producing a different aesthetic result particularly suited to more advanced, sculptural origami work. This is a genuinely different technique requiring different paper (heavier, more absorbent paper suited to wetting without tearing) and more advanced handling, not simply a variation any beginner model benefits from trying.
The one thing people forget
Practice a model's specific folding sequence with cheap practice paper before attempting it with a nicer, more expensive final paper, particularly for a complex or unfamiliar model — working out the sequence and catching any confusing steps on disposable paper first avoids wasting a nicer sheet on a model that needs to be abandoned partway through due to a folding sequence misunderstanding.